A self-driving tour of White Oaks, NM.

Welcome to White Oaks, NM

White Oaks was named for the white oak trees that grew around a local spring in the foothills of the Patos Mountains. Gold in rich veins drew people to the neighborhood. The discovery of such veins sparked interest in the vicinity of Baxter Mountain, but when gold was first discovered in the White Oaks area is not precisely known. There is evidence that the sheepherders knew there was placer gold (small particles which can be washed or panned out of the gravel) in the canyon as far back as 1848.
White Oaks is dotted with placer deposits, which over the years yielded varying amounts of gold dust and nuggets. There is evidence that descendants of the early Spaniards and perhaps even the Indians worked these deposits long before the discovery that led to the birth of White Oaks.

In 1870, three prospectors, Charles Baxter, John E. Wilson and John V. Winters, were camped at a spring. The spring may have been the one near the Old Powder House. George Wilson, an escapee from jail in El Paso, came to their camp and they shared their food with him. He urgently wanted to make his way westward and walked toward the ridge between Baxter Mountain and Lone Mountain in order to plot his path. Before reaching the ridge he tired and rested. At his resting place he noticed an outcropping of rock that was different. He broke off a piece and put it in his pocket. When he returned to camp rather late, he showed two of the prospectors the rock. They recognized it as gold and retraced his path to the place he had found it.

George Wilson had only one aim. He wanted to put distance between himself and the El Paso sheriff. He was offered two ounces of gold, the silver they had left, and a pistol in return for whatever claim he had on the gold. He accepted all of these and headed west.

Numerous mining claims soon followed this transaction. Among them were the North Homestake, South Homestake, and the Old Abe (which was actually named as the White Oaks) the Robert E. Lee, the Smuggler, the Rita, Lady Godiva, Silver Cliff, Miners Cabin and others. It has been estimated that $4,500,000.00 in gold was actually produced. The Old Abe was the leading producer.

White Oaks gold was mostly 90% pure with 10% silver oxide. Mining engineers search for formations such as the ones found at White Oaks because the gold is so pure and often found in easily accessible soft areas. Still, mining at White Oaks involved a great deal in those days. For example, the South Homestake owners made a list of the needed equipment for their operation:

• two portable sawmills
• 30 to 40 span of oxen with yoke and bows
• heavy logging wagons with chains and equipment and a pipe-boring outfit to make wooden pipelines for water
• a well drill
• mine hoist, cable, sheaves, buckets, cars, rails, with boiler engines, iron pipe, fittings, blacksmith shop and tools

All of these items had to be purchased in St. Louis and hauled to White Oaks from Las Vegas, New Mexico, by mule and ox teams.

At its peak White Oaks had an estimated population of 2,500 and churches, a newspaper, a bank, opera house, lodges, saloons and well-stocked retail stores. Most impressive was the number of well-educated people who found their way to White Oaks. There was a great deal of cultured social life in this bustling mining town.

Some writers have portrayed White Oaks as a headquarters for a lawless element, but overall this was untrue. Still, as late as 1892 an El Paso reporter was pleasantly surprised to write there was “not a single revolver in sight” during his visit to White Oaks. Some incidents occurred involving notorious people. Billy the Kid (William Bonney) rode into White Oaks on a few occasions. On November 28, 1880, Bonney, Dave Rudabaugh and William Wilson rode into White Oaks with stolen horses which they took to Sam Dedrick’s livery stable. As the posse formed to arrest them, word of it filtered in to Bonney and his pals. They successfully slipped out of town that day, but the following day the posse followed Mose Dedrick, Sam’s brother, as he drove a load of supplies to the outlaw hideout. Deputy Sheriff Will Hudgin and his posse of eight expected trouble, but were taken by surprise when the shooting started. Even though the the posse killed the horses of both Wilson and Bonney, he and the others escaped. Remarkably, the trio returned to White Oaks the day after this encounter, rode through town and even took a shot at Deputy Sheriff James Redman. Not surprisingly, some White Oaks men were members of a posse that followed him to the Greathouse Ranch near Corona November 30, 1880. Bonney led the ensuing battle in which White Oaks blacksmith James Carlyle was shot and killed.

The Hoyle house was built in 1893 by a part owner of the Old Abe, Watson Hoyle, for Mr. Hoyle's fiancée, but the young lady never arrived in White Oaks.

White Oaks had at least two tragedies. A fire in the Old Abe took the lives of eight men and another fire in the South Homestake took two lives.

Shortly after the turn of the century the ore deposits became less profitable. The Old Abe developed a problem with the timbers in the shaft and John Y. Hewitt, one of the owners, shut it down.

Many in White Oaks assumed that the El Paso and North Eastern Railroad would be built through the town and from time to time the newspapers wrote of the prospects for the community after the coming of the railroad. However, those who owned the property wanted too much for the right-of-way and White Oaks was by-passed by the railroad in favor of Carrizozo. Soon after, a town that began as one of the most promising in all of New Mexico sank into oblivion.

During World War I, a company took a lot of tungsten from the North Homestake. Because of its improper mining techniques, serious caving occurred later.

Coal deposits in the gap between Patos and Carrizo Mountains yielded a great deal of coal.

Prominent individuals in New Mexico's history were a part of White Oaks history. W. C. McDonald arrived in White Oaks as a surveyor and later became New Mexico's first governor after statehood. A. H. Hudspeth was Justice and Chief Justice of the New Mexico Supreme Court. John Y. Hewitt became a member of the state constitutional convention. H. B. Ferguson became a U. S. senator. Emerson Hough, who came to White Oaks to practice law, became a writer instead and wrote about White Oaks in his novel "Heart’s Desire."

A Guided Tour of White Oaks, NM

A. Approaching White Oaks from the turnoff on U. S. 54, about four miles north of Carrizozo, the first thing you will see is the remains of the "Old Abe" pump. The water was pumped from a 180 foot well with steam power to the "Old Abe" mine about one mile up the hill and used in the mine and mill operations. Incidentally, the coal for the boilers was mined in the White Oaks area.

B. On the south side of the road is Cedarvale Cemetery. It is on the National Historic Register. The first graves were dug around 1880. The Knights of Pythias acquired the property about 1892. Lots were sold, and the cemetery contains the graves of many important people in the development of New Mexico, including W. C. McDonald, the first governor after statehood, Susan McSween Barber, Paul Mayer and Dave Jackson. In the southwest part of the cemetery you will find the grave of John V. Winters, who was one of the discoverers of the "Mother Lode" of gold in 1879. His grave is in a north-south direction rather than the traditional east-west direction. Why? Thinking ahead he had requested this so that he could be overlooking his strike in perpetuity

1. DR. LANE'S HOUSE - it is hard to imagine, but there was a flood in White Oaks in 1912. There was sufficient water in this house to float the furniture. Dr. Lane had his office and home here. On the other side of the house was the Assay Office. He also had one of the first schools in the area in his home, begun and equipped for elementary school children.

2. The BIGGS RESIDENCE - Joe Biggs ranched in the area and owned the dairy. Part of the milk house can be seen on the west side of the building. Joe spent his entire life in White Oaks and is buried in Cedarvale.

3. FELIX GUEBARA RESIDENCE

4. SUSAN McSWEEN BARBER - Moved to White Oaks from Three Rivers.. She first lived in a house on White Oaks Avenue. After it burned, she moved into a home with a friend, Laura Leighnor. It was located directly behind the Jones Taliaferro Store building, which fronted on White Oaks Avenue. There she lived until her death in 1931. Her funeral was held in the old rock Congregational Church, which was later demolished. She was buried in Cedarvale Cemetery in White Oaks.

(Above: photo of Susan McSween in front of her house in White Oaks courtesy Lincoln County Historical Society.) This account covers only the latter years of her life. Susan McSween Barber was one of the prominent figures in the Lincoln County War. An ardent supporter of Billy the Kid, she defended him and his cause as long as she lived. Later she became the "Cattle Queen" of New Mexico with large ranch holdings in the Three Rivers area.

5. PAUL MAYER RESIDENCE - This was also the livery and office. Paul Mayer had the livery stable, the feed store and also loaned money to many people in the area. He carried gold bars from White Oaks to San Antonio, the closest railroad shipping point. He did this on horseback, alone, often at night. Before taking the gold, he would check the bars in town for strangers. If all seemed clear he would saddle his horse, put the gold in the saddlebags and spend the night delivering gold. Gold was bringing about $18 - $20 per ounce. Paul was well respected and gained prominence as a leading citizen.

6. BAXTER HOTEL

7. OZANNE HOTEL

8.Taliaferro Building- This foundation was the Taliaferro Building. It was a general mercantile store operated by Taliaferro and O. D. Mayer. Brick from this store was used to build the now defunct variety store in Carrizozo.

9.From the top of Rocky Peak you can see most of White Oaks. Looking to the Southeast you can see the Brown Store, Hoyle House and Ziegler House. As you view White Oaks from this point you can imagine the past hustle and bustle. There are remnants of the Old Ball Mill at the base of Rocky Peak.

10. LITTLE CASINO SALOON. The structure on the right. The Exchange Bank is in the center. Photo circa. 1917.

It housed a general mercantile and post office with offices on the second story. The structure no longer exists.

12.ALBERT ZIEGLER STORE AND RESIDENCE - Ziegler owned one of the larger general mercantile stores in White Oaks. He later moved to Carrizozo where he operated another mercantile establishment.

13.SOL WEINER STORE

14.WILLIAM WATSON RESIDENCE

15.STEWART RESIDENCE AND STORE

16.This is the foundation of the CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH, which was built in 1890. It was the center of community activities. Many a memorial Christmas program was held in this particular church. Dave Jackson was Santa Claus. The story Mrs. Nettie Lemon wrote about Christmas was based on the program in this building. You can see that the mortar made from local limestone has fallen out of the wall. It was not always the best quality.

17.SIDNEY PARKER RESIDENCE

18.CHARLIE LITTELL RESIDENCE - this presents a varied roofline and shows it was added to at least three times. The original brick building has the adobe addition and another roof was added. Later a shed was added on the other side. John A. Haley lived in this house at one time early in the 1900's. He was a teacher and published a newspaper in White Oaks.

19.ALLAN LANE RESIDENCE

20. TOWN HALL

21.JOHN Y. HEWITT RESIDENCE

22.TREAT HOUSE - Later owned by Dave Jackson. It was one of the few houses that had water piped into the house from the spring south of White Oaks. Dave Jackson came to White Oaks in 1897. He was an African-American and one of the community’s leaders. He was well respected by everyone. He and his wife took particular care of the sick. After he became a partner in the Wildcat Leasing Company he acquired money and traveled extensively. He lived in White Oaks until his death in 1963.

23.BROWN STORE - One of the buildings still standing and in need of restoration. It is on the main road. The Brown Store, at one time or another, contained a school, a dance hall, and offices. The White Oaks jail was to the northwest of the Brown Store.

It served as a jail until an inmate kicked a hole in the roof and escaped. He stood on his head on a cot to accomplish this feat. The Sol Weiner store was just west of the Brown store. Behind the Brown Store is a cistern involved in a legendary incident. At a dance, one of the local men imbibed too much, caused some trouble and was put in the cistern because they lacked a jail.

The cistern was dry, but during the night it rained. The following day his frantic calls revealed he was standing in four feet of water.

24. TAYLOR HOUSE - across from the Brown Store. Mr. Taylor was a blacksmith and you can still see the remains of the blacksmith shop foundation directly across from the Brown Store. The adobe portion was added on to the original log building.

25.SLACK MORTUARY

26.PADEN DRUG AND DR. M. G. PADEN HOUSE - Dr. Paden was a doctor in White Oaks for many years and later moved to Carrizozo. He cared for the sick and gave lots of time to their welfare without much reimbursement. He also operated a drugstore in White Oaks and later in Carrizozo.

27.BONNELL RESIDENCE

28.HUDSPETH RESIDENCE

29.ERASMUS PARKER HOUSE - later owned by A. N. Price. This is a very large adobe house which is now probably beyond repair or restoration. Behind the building is a shaft in which you can see veins of coal.

30. HOYLE HOUSE - now owned by Mrs. Larue Wetzel, a daughter of Allen Lane. The house was a landmark in White Oaks from the moment it was built in 1893. It is reported to have cost $40,000.00. Note the observation platform, sometimes known as the "Widow's Walk," and the various windows: two round and one rectangular attic windows and one arched front window. Upon a close inspection, you can see how well the stone cornices are joined into the brick. It is said that stonecutters were brought from St. Louis to do this work.

31.W. C. McDONALD was the first governor of the state of New Mexico, elected in 1911. He came to the area from Kansas where he was a lawyer. He arrived in White Oaks in 1880 and was a U. S. Deputy Mineral Surveyor for New Mexico until 1890. He became manager of the Carrizozo Cattle Company in 1890 and later owned the company. He was Lincoln County Assessor 1885-1887. He became a member of the Territorial House of Representatives in 1891. He began his remarkable career as an unknown and rose to be one of the best-known men in New Mexico. He steadfastly refused to use his office for any personal gain.

32.METHODIST CHURCH

33.WATSON-LUND LAW OFFICE - It was never any larger than the brick portion is at present. The brick had to be brought in by wagon at a considerable cost. At one time it was a printer's office for the local newspaper. Nowadays it is the local watering hole, the White Oaks Saloon and Social Club.

34. WHITE OAKS SCHOOL BUILDING - It was built in 1895 and has four schoolrooms. The White Oaks Historical Society is restoring this building and has established a museum in it. Mrs. Joyce Simpson, Mrs. Lorene Casey, Mrs. Florence Ward and Mrs. Mary Stoneman were some of the most recent teachers. The school was closed in 1947. Rob Leslie, Nettie Lemon and Bill Gallacher were among the first students. The Gumm brothers built the school. The big classroom is now used as a meeting place. It has a maple floor often used for dances. It is still heated by a pot-bellied stove and still has the old blackboards. The original school desks are also still in the building, many bearing the autographs of former students. The old home economics room has the wood stove ready for the class.

35.CANNING HOUSE - Canning built this house. He also had a house in Lincoln. He later lived in Carrizozo and built the house where J. E. Thornton resides.

36.GUMM HOUSE - has bay windows and shows excellent carpentry work; it is a good example of precise workmanship. It was owned at one time or another by Ed Queen, Warden Brother and Pat Murphy. Below as pictured around 1981. It was a fire waiting to happen. Pat Garrett, Lincoln County Sheriff, was at the Gumm House arranging to purchase lumber to build a scaffold to hand Billy the Kid when the Kid made is famous escape form the Lincoln Courthouse.

38.AH NUE LAUNDRY

39.KASTLER RESIDENCE

40.THE POWDER MAGAZINE is about a mile up the canyon toward Carrizo Mountain. This is where the dynamite for the mines in White Oaks was stored. There is a one-room cabin or dugout behind the Powder Magazine. The power plant which supplied electricity to White Oaks was located up this canyon; it also supplied the Nogal, Helen Rae and American mines near Nogal as well as the Vera Cruz mine on the Tucson Mountain. Local boys sometimes threw a wire over the line to see the sparks fly. Luckily, they were not hurt.

Jicarilla

Jicarilla is about seven miles north of White Oaks on the Forest Road. The Jicarilla School is the first building you see as you approach Jicarilla. It is a fine log building presently being used by rats and mice and an occasional picnicker. It holds fond memories of many dances throughout the years. Old timers still recall the good times, especially the Fourth of July. Note the dovetail log construction making for a stouter building. It later had wainscoting applied to interior walls and ceiling.

The holes behind Jicarilla School were dug by placer miners to get to the gold bearing gravel yard. The remains of the early placer mining are the shallow pits dug in the area, and if a large quantity of water were available, placer mining could still be done here. Miguel Otero and Reverend Bernard put a dam on the Ancho Gulch and used the water to pan for gold in 1860.

In the Jicarilla cemetery, about a quarter mile south of the school, is the grave of George Thorpe. He came to the area for his health and ran matched races with his fast steeldust horses. Close to George Thorpe grave is the log crib grave of H.A. Major, who died February 18, 1896. Little is known of H. A. Major.

The Jicarilla Post Office was established in 1892 when a small community of placer miners and ranchers in northern Lincoln County petitioned the Post Office Department for an office to be named for the surrounding mountains. In December of that year, Jicarilla was established with Jacob Weisher as the Postmaster. The Office continued until November 1927, when the federal government discontinued it, only to re-establish it shortly thereafter and then again abolish it, this time permanently.

The gravel beds in the Jicarilla area have consistently produced enough free gold to maintain varying levels of prospecting and placer mining activities.

Since the 1870's there have been few periods without some mining activity, and there are active claims being worked today.

Ancho

If you continue on the main forest road (Forest Road 72), you will come to the pavement of Ancho. Ancho, which means "wide," was established at the turn of the century when men came to a fertile valley, saw the possibilities of the gypsum hills nearby, and filed mining claims. Homesteaders quickly followed, filed on the one hundred sixty acres allotted them, and became the first sheep and cattle ranchers of the area. In 1902 a post office was opened with Frank J. Bush as the first postmaster.

In 1905, the Bosque's of Iowa came to Ancho, found fire clay and established a brick plant. That same year the railroad came through Ancho and the depot was built. After the 1906 earthquake and fire in San Francisco, plaster and brick were shipped by rail from Ancho to help with rebuilding the city.

In 1917, the brick plant was sold to Phelps Dodge Corporation of Arizona and a sixteen-kiln plant was built at a cost of $150,000. This proved to be unprofitable as the plant went bankrupt in 1921 and has remained closed since that date.

Throughout the years, the railroad and the ranching industry continued to provide an income for the community. In the depression, the population increased by families mining for gold in the Jicarilla Mountains, but with the coming of World War II, they moved to the cities where jobs were plentiful.

In 1954, paving of U. S. 54 was completed between Carrizozo and Corona, bypassing Ancho. In 1958 the railroad depot was discontinued and the building put up for bid. Mrs. Lucy Straley Silvers, better known as "Jackie," purchased the depot and moved it onto property she owned. In 1963, she opened a museum, "My House of Old Things." The museum, housed in the depot building, is a nostalgic trip through the past for the older generation, and an education for the younger generation.

8/4/2002: 36-45